Calvin and Ola-Out of Africa-1966

 Uncle Cal and Aunt Ola Wixom were in Africa where he was working in 1966. 

He was Earl Wixom's brother.

Hargeisa, Somali Republic

January 8, 1966

Hello All 

this is to be another of those long letters which I used to write. I have not written one for a long time because we were not doing anything unusual. Now we have just returned from a trip and since some of you have asked why the long letters stopped, here is another to tell of our experiences on this trip. We are about half-way through this tour and decided to take a vacation in order to fortify ourselves for another year. Our Government will pay the transportation costs for one such trip during each tour to any place no farther away than Athens, Greece. It is called rest and Rehabilitation and is only available in certain parts of the world. 

We chose to go to what is called East Aftrica - Kenya. Uganda and Tanzania (formerly Tanganyika). Before independence these three countries were ruled by Great Brittain - Kenya as a Colony and the others under a mandate from the old League of nations. Somalia is on the North East horn of Africa. These other countries are to the South West of us. in case any of you wish to hurry up and get a map, I'll stop here for a few minutes and give you a chance to catch up again.......

Okay? First we flew to Aden which is on the Southern tip of Arabia. We stayed there all night and then flew on a big DC707 of the "Air India" line to Nairobi, Kenya. The plane was full of Indians, Naturally, en-route from Bombay to Nairobi. The Indians are the second largest population group all along the Eastern part of Africa, outnumbering Europeans by far. They are business people, shop keepers, traders and civil servants. many of them have been here for several generations and are citizens. 

These three countries are the most well known big game countries although Southern Africa also has it's share. All of them have well established game parks. Tourism and big game hunting bring in a lot of revenue. and they have good facilities for taking care of people. 

This is a trip that I, at least, have wanted to take for several years and would be impossible except for the fact that we are here and were helped on transportation expenses. And even so, we have reduced our bank balance considerably. 

In early times, Kenya and Tanzania were teaming with game animals, much like the buffalo of our west. But with the coming of settlement and development the game has been thinned out except in the parks. There are still good areas for hunters in the undeveloped regions but it is said that the game is disappearing fast and needs rigid protection. Kenya has a wide variety of climate, from hot, humid weather on the Indian ocean, to rather dry upland plains, to higher, wetter and cooler mountain regions. Even though it is on the equator, the elevation is mostly high and the temperature ideal. It is a paradise. Tanzania has more dry country and is generally lower in elevation. Uganda has the most beautiful scenery. The rainfall is high and the vegetation is lush. Oh, how green it is! Some of the forests are of the Tarzan type. And there is a lot of water. But the climate is not so healthful as some other places - Malaria and sleeping sickness caused by the bite of the Tsetse fly. 

Back to Nairobi. It is a large, modern and beautiful city. we were there for three days. Then we went to Kampala, Uganda on the railroad train. It took a day and a night. We had a small compartment to ourselves complete with beds - very comfortable. We arrived in the morning and were met at the train by a young Irish couple who live there and who used to live in Hargeisa. They showed us the town and countryside and took us to dinner. Then that night we had dinner with an American couple who were formerly in Mogadiscio. Then next morning we left for a two day tour of Murchison National Park. 

If you have maps, prepare to use them now. Look up Lake Victoria with it's North end in Uganda. It's South end in Tanzania, bounded on the East by Kenya and on the West by the Congo. The lake is the second largest fresh water lake in the world - second only to Lake Superior. It is among the world's highest in elevation. It is the source of the Nile River which flows Northward 4000 miles through the Sudan and Egypt to the Mediterranean Sea. From Victoria the water flows North through Lake Kyoga. Then the Nile begins. At the outlet of Lake Kyoga is Murchison Falls, of which, more later. 

Our trip to Murchison was a guided tour with a group in two Volkswaggen busses. Murchison is a famous for elephants, hippos and crockodiles. We had no sooner entered the park gates than we saw a group of elephants near the road on a stream. 

Thereafter, we saw many, many individuals and groups. It should be said here that most of the animals disregard a vehicle and people are safe as long as they stay in the car. Elephants and rhinos, however, are unpredicatable and when close to them one should keep the motor running and be in position to get away if they should charge. These animals see so many cars, they usually ignore them. 

Murchison is in a somewhat drier area There are great, grassy plains and most of the elephants were grazing on this grass. Then it is hot they like to go to water and graze on certain trees and water plants. On the open plain they seem fantastic, looming up like huge grey rocks. We were hardly ever out of sight of some of them. We often stopped near them. On one occasion we were on a narrow road and came onto a big one in the middle of the road. We could not go off the road to get around him. The driver drove up close, put the gear in reverse around him. The driver drove up close, put the gear in reverse around him. The driver drove up close, put the gear in reverse and then raced the motor in hopes that the noise would irritate him into moving aside. But he ignored us completely. These drivers never honk the horn. And so we sat wondering how long his. lordship would choose to occupy the road. It would be dark in an hour or so. Finally the other bus driver came up behind us, stopped a while, then pulled around in front of us and actually charge the elephant while gunning his motor. When the bus was about the foot away from his trunk the elephant swung off to the side and we both went through. It seemed a foolhardy thing to do but he got away with it. 

Murchison Falls is not so spectacular from the standpoint of height. It's uniqueness lies in the fact that the entire Nile river wide. What a roar and a commotion this is! The tortured water is hurled at great velocity to break against the sides and upon the rocks below. The spray rises in iridescent clouds and rainbows broad and placid. This portion of the river is a sanctuary from hippos and crocodiles. We saw them the nest day. 

We spent the night at a lodge about two miles below the falls. When we went to the dining room that night after dark we had to walk about five hundred yards along an unlit path. On the next morning we saw a sign that read, "Warning, Elephant - Do Not Use This Trail After Dark". At night the hippos come out of the water to graze on the banks. Just before I went to sleep I heard a noise outside. I looked out and there was a hippo grazing on the grass just in front of our window. Ola was asleep and I called to her but she could only rouse enough to make the observation that she doubted that he needed any help. 

On the next morning we made a trip by river launch between the lodge and the falls. we saw hippos by the hundreds and crocs by the dozens. Crocs like to lie out on the banks in the sun with their jaws open. You can't get very close to them. They are easily startled and they make for the water in a slithering rush. They are gruesome creatures with nothing good to be said for them. Hippos like to loll in the water in groups. They can submerge without effort and walk on the bottom or lie near the surface with only their protuberant eyes, above the surface with only their protuberant eyes, above the surface. Out launch drifted near one who was asleep near the bank with only his eyes showing. The launch driver maneuvered so as to give the hippo a bump and to boost him onto the bank. He left the water exposing to us a vast, un-lovely rear. Then he turned to regard us with indignation before plunging back into the water in another place. 

After this tour on the river we went back to Kampala for the night. On the next morning we got aboard a lake steamer for a trip on Lake Victoria. we were on this boat for a day and a night, travelling South to Tanzania. we had a tiny cabin but it was comfortable. The view from the lake was grand as we passed many islands or came near the shore. I sat for hours with my binoculars looking at settlements, people and animals on the shore. In several places no land could be seen in any direction. 

At Mwanza we had reservations to fly to Serengeti Park but found the airfield closed because of damage by a storm. The roads were impassable too and it seemed we would be stuck there for about a week. But very fortunately we found a man with a small Cessna plane who could use the airfield. He agreed to take us, and did, for a stiff fee. Ouch! But we were lucky to get away at that. 

Serongeti, Ngorongoro and Lake Manyara Parks are all in Tanzania. At the lodge in Serengeti the buildings are circular with cement walls and conical grass roofs - very clean, cool, comfortable and picturesque. The park is mostly of prairie type vegetation and is noted for it's hordes of grass eaters and for lions. The animals are migratory and in January through March are said to be there by thousands, as our buffalo used to be. We were there a bit too early for that but we did see the first comers of migratory wildebeeste (gnu), pronounced wild as in wilderness. They were strung out four of five in a string as far as we could see in both directions and grazing as they traveled. 

They resemble our buffalo somewhat, but are smaller - fully as ugly though. There were also plenty of resident Hartebeeste which are similar, and all of the varieties of small gazelles. Also Ostrick, wart hog, Hyenas, Jackels and large birds. We saw a few large, cow-like creatures which are quite rare. They are Elands. I think they would weigh more than elk. We saw two cheetas running across the plain. they resemble Leopards but are taller and more slender and are said to be the fastest of all animals. I can believe it. You couldn't keep up with one in a car on the prairie. We saw a leopard in a tree. He paid no attention to us as we sat in the car beneath him. These Safari vehicles have openings in the roof so you can stand up and take pictures. The animals pay no attention to you, even so. They must think the vehicle is just another strange animal with horns sticking out in odd places. 

And we saw many lions. In the daytime they like to sleep in the shade after a hard day's night. Cars drive up right beside them and they couldn't care less. the sleepy ones will sometimes open one eye and look you over and yawn. Some lie on their backs with their feet in the air like house cats. They appear as gentle as house cats - from a car. 

I forgot to say that for the three parks in Tanzania we were conducted by a driver in a British made four wheel drive "Land Rover". The driver was formerly a tracker for a game hunting company and he knew how to find game to show us. His name was Daudi. 

We came upon a large black snake about seven feet long. I think it was a African Cobra. We stopped to look at it and Daudi closed all the windows. He said, "Him not good". It is said that they can spit their venom and maybe he was just taking no chances. Anyway we didn't argue. 

Then we went on to Ngorongoro crater. This is an extinct Volcano about seven miles across from rim to rim. Inside, the bottom is flat and has a small lake. and the bottom is full of beasties. There is a dugway road in and out. the lodge is located on the rim in an idyllic setting. This is high country and the nights are quite cool. We had a fireplace in our room and a fire. It was real cozy. We had a fireplace in our room and a fire. It was real cozy. Imagine needing a fire at the equator. The altitude is responsible. This is near Mt. Kiliminjaro that has snow on the summit the year around. At dusk the view from the rim was magnificent. 

We stayed there overnight and we liked this place best of all. We went down inside and toured the crater floor. We saw more of the same kinds of animals, minus elephants, but plus rhinoceruses. What unbelievable creatures they are. The first ones must have been put together by committee, using left-over materials. We drove quite close to them, respectfully, and I judged that the largest was six feet high at the shoulder. What bulk! But they travel at a bouncy trot and can gallop fast for a short distance. I for one was relieved when we moved on and left them to their gloomy contemplations. 

And we saw lions. Oh my yes. More even than a Serengeti. There were seven or eight vehicles in the crater. The drivers must have known about this bunch and agreed among themselves when to hunt for them. At a certain time they all fanned out into new country, searching. It took a long time but they found them in a thick grove of willows about fifty feet across. The cars surrounded this grove. We could see the heads of two of them and I thought "Well, so what" We have seen plenty of lions". But then some of the drivers started ramming their cars into the willows and out came a whole basketful of lions, makes and females and half-grown cubs. They were not irritated. Most of the old ones lay down again while the cubs frollicked around or over them. There were twenty four of them. Such loveable creatures they were. One would like to pest them. Yes. 

The next stop was Lake Manyara National Park. This is lower and warmer country. The lake is in the bottom of the great rift valley. This rift is a result of the world's greatest geological disturbance. It is a fault running from just north of the Dead Sea in Palestine, South across Arabia, under the Red Sea, Through Ethiopia, Kenya and the Rhodesias to the Zambesi River and the Indian Ocean. The Dead Sea is in this fault and some historians think that the destruction of Sodom and Gomorra might have been caused by this earthquake. The hotel is perched on the rim high above the park. It is a luxury hotel. Each room has it's veranda in front where guests can sit and watch the valley below. I could see elephants, rhinos and grazing animals below without glasses. With glasses, I could almost see them blink their eyes. The sunrise over the valley and the lake was gorgeous. We stayed there for two nights and were there on Christmas eve and Christmas day. Being away from home and family we did not try to capture the Christmas spirit but the hotel was decorated and they had the traditional British roast goose and turkey. we enjoyed it very much but our thoughts were of loved ones far away. 

We toured the park on Christmas day and had a picnic lunch down there in open, grassy spot where we could watch Zebras grazing not far away. Oh, I have forgotten to mention the zebras and the Giraffes. We saw many of them at all three of these parks - more zebras than iraffes. The zebras are sturdy built, rather stupid animals. They say you never see one that is not fat, even though the feed may be scarce and other animals lose flesh. their crisp color patterns show up distinctly at a short distance but farther away they appear grey and glend in with the landscape. I think I like the giraffes best of all. they are so shy and mild and inoffensive. Their large, liquid eyes protruding from a small head at the end of a long, derrick-like neck gaze at the world with curiosity from the advantage of great height. One often sees their heads and necks first, above bushes or small trees, and always at an angle of about forty five degrees. It would seem impossible for them to run, being elevated on such long, stilt-like legs and with their heads towering into the sky. But they can gallop rather fast. It seems that the motion starts in the neck, flowing in undulations down it in a wavy fashion through the body and to the legs. Their ridiculous little tails finish the motion by flopping in all directions. 

Ola likes the Thompson Gazelles best. They are small, about two and a half feet high, and very very active, they are a golden color with white bellies and faces and with a diagonal black stripe along their sides. 

Well, back to our tour now. Lake Manyara Park also has many elephants. But their habitat here is among large trees and lush vegetation. Daudi was very careful with them in this place. Whenever he stopped near them he made sure he had an escape route. And if he saw one or two he always looked carefully to make sure there were no others behind us, or nearer than the ones first seen. 

Many of the lions in Manyara climb trees. Yes they do. He showed us one about thirty feet up in a big tree. This one was a male. He was stretched out on a large limb sleeping. Daudi banged the side of the car to wake him so he would raise his head for a picture. They like to get up in the trees to escape the heat and Tsetse flies. 

Here also we saw large herds of buffalo. These are the water buffalo type - not at all like ours. They are black and dirty and ugly and mean. They like to wallow in mud holes. The females have horns much like an ordinary cow. But the horns of the males are massive close to the head, tapering sharply to the tips. Cars do not, or should not, venture too close to buffalos because they are unpredictable and very dangerous. 

The tour of Lake Manyara really ended our game viewing but not our vacation. From there went to Arusha, Tanzania, and stayed overnight. Arausha is at the foot of Mt. Kiliminjaro but this mountain was shrouded in clouds and we did not get to see it. From Arasha we flew back to Nairobi where we stayed for four days before heading for home. I took lots of pictures which I hope turn out alright. 

Now we are home and glad to be back. We like our home here. I will be going back to Kenya after about a month for a two week period. the US AID down there wants me for consultation on some range conservation they are planning. They will take me on a ten day Safari through the range country and ask me to make up a report and recommendations. 

So ends another long letter. We wish all of you the best possible life through 1966 and expect to be able to see you again about thirteen months from now. 

Cal and Ola

April 2, 1966

Dear Family:

The red breasted old bird flew in yesterday bringing in all of the letters from you. He is going out again tomorrow with scarcely time for re-fueling and a bit of rest. But he'll make it I'm sure because we have re-emphasized to him what a responsibility he is carrying, and what a tragedy it would be if he failed and the cycle be broken. It never has yet, you know during these many years. And it seems to us that the letters become more precious as time goes on. How else could we keep such close contact - especially to keep up with what all of our younger ones are doing? For us, each new group of letters is much like a visit with you all. So here goes this one. 

I will start off by telling what news we have of us. time is going by swiftly for us now because we are busier than usual and are having much social activity. Imagine that! The reason for the social activity is that a large group of people have been or are leaving just now and there are goodbye parties and dinners. First there was the manager of the Scottish-owned bank-he just left then about thirty Peace Corps Volunteers left yesterday. We had a big party for them at the club-brought a five piece band over from Aden, and had some local talent entertainment too, including myself with song and guitar. It was formal and I wore my moth-eaten tux and Ola wore a nice, new brocade party dress that she had just finished making. She is always a sweetheart but she looked so extra nice that night, I was proud to be her escort. 

In a few days our consul and his family are leaving and we have two farewell dinners to attend for him. Then we are having them to our house for dinner. We went to the movie last night, will go again Friday, and then to a few with a departing English school principal lady. Such a whirl. 

My two projects were due to end July and I was to stay on as an advisor until the end of our tour. But now there is such a clamor from local people for an extension, it may be that our mission will scrape up enough money to keep it going for a few more months or until I leave. If they don't find the money I may be up for transfer to somewhere after a few more months. So our future is indefinite. But we don't worry about it. We are like Gene "Artry", we're just a rollin' along. All is well with us. 

Oh yes! A big event yesterday. I went out and played golf on our cow-sheep-goat-camel pasture golf course. Par for the course is 36 and I shot 39. It is the best score I ever made. Am I inflated" Well, my natural modesty persuades me to say no more. Shouldn't have even mentioned it. Or should I have? 

Love to all from us.

Cal and Ola.